What's the hype behind 'Goyard'?

In the world of luxury fashion, few brands command the respect and mystique that Goyard does. While names like Louis Vuitton and Hermès dominate headlines and red carpets, Goyard operates in the shadows—yet emerges as the most coveted status symbol among the world's elite. The brand's unprecedented 104% resale value retention rate in 2024, surpassing even Hermès for the first time, speaks volumes about its investment worthiness. But what exactly drives the Goyard hype, and is it truly worth the investment?

The Origin

Goyard's story begins long before the brand name itself existed. Founded in 1792 by Pierre-François Martin as "Maison Martin," the company originally specialized in "box-making, trunk-making, and packing" for French aristocracy. The business catered to nobility who needed their precious possessions carefully packed and shipped overseas, establishing a foundation of exclusivity that continues today.

The Goyard name entered the picture in 1853 when François Goyard, a dedicated apprentice who had worked under Louis-Henri Morel for eight years, acquired the business following Morel's sudden death. This transition marked the beginning of what would become one of the world's most prestigious luxury houses. François Goyard's son, Edmond, proved instrumental in shaping the brand's identity, taking control in 1885 and introducing innovations that would define Goyard for generations.

The most significant breakthrough came in 1892 when Edmond Goyard created the famous Goyardine canvas —a revolutionary waterproof material combining hemp, linen, and cotton with a distinctive chevron pattern. This innovation wasn't merely aesthetic; it drew deep inspiration from the family's heritage as log drivers in the Morvan forest, with the piled-up dot pattern symbolizing the log drives guided by his ancestors.

The brand wasn't always called Goyard. It began as "Maison Martin," became "Maison Morel," then "House of Goyard," and finally "Goyard Ainé" (French for "elder") before settling on simply “Goyard”.

The Hype Behind

Heritage Craftsmanship

Goyard's reputation rests on more than mystique—the craftsmanship justifies the premium. Each piece bears unique artisan markings, and the traditional manufacturing process remains largely unchanged since the 19th century. The Goyardine canvas production involves a ground-colour application followed by three successive layers of etched colours through screen printing, creating the trademark embossed pattern that ages gracefully over time.

The brand's commitment to traditional methods means limited production capacity, naturally restricting supply. While competitors have embraced mechanization to meet growing demand, Goyard maintains its artisanal approach, ensuring each piece meets exacting standards.

Goyard eschews personal branding—even company spokespeople strictly refer to the “maison” (house) rather than individuals. The exact method of their hand-painted iconic chevron design has remained closely guarded by the family since its invention and is passed down to artisans through direct training, never revealed in marketing or public documentation

Word-of-Mouth Exclusivity

Unlike virtually every other luxury brand, Goyard has built its empire on silence. The company foregoes advertising, celebrity endorsements, e-commerce, and even social media marketing. This radical approach to luxury branding creates an aura of mystery that money simply cannot buy. As a Goyard representative explained, "Luxury is a dream, and revealing too much of what goes on behind the scenes would spoil the magic".

This strategic silence has proven incredibly effective. The brand operates on a "those who know, know" principle, making ownership feel like membership in an exclusive club. While brands like Louis Vuitton operates hundreds of stores globally and floods social media with content, Goyard maintains just 35 boutiques worldwide.

Purchase Limitation

Goyard's commitment to exclusivity extends beyond marketing strategy to actual production limitations to purchase limitation. The brand restricts customers to purchasing only four accessories per year, regardless of their status or spending power. This artificial scarcity, combined with the absence of online sales, creates demand that far exceeds supply.

The brand's private ownership structure also contributes to its mystique. Unlike publicly-traded luxury conglomerates that must answer to shareholders and meet earnings expectations, Goyard remains privately held, allowing it to prioritize reputation maintenance over profit maximization. This freedom enables the brand to maintain its artisanal focus without pressure to mass-produce or expand rapidly.

Saint Louis Tote, the iconic, classic tote. Open top, detachable pouch. Drives more than half of Goyard’s revenue.

Celebrity Magnetism

Despite avoiding celebrity endorsements, Goyard has attracted an impressive roster of famous clients organically. The brand has been spotted on everyone from Meghan Markle and Gwyneth Paltrow to likes of David Beckham, have all been photographed carrying various Goyard pieces. This organic celebrity adoption without paid partnerships adds authenticity to the brand's prestige.

The brand has served as royal purveyor to nobility including the Duchess of Berry and has created pieces for everyone from Coco Chanel and Pablo Picasso to the Duke and Duchess of Windsor.

Is Goyard Worth the Investment?

From a purely financial perspective, Goyard represents one of the strongest investments in the luxury goods market. The brand's 104% value retention rate means you're likely to break even or profit on resale—a rare guarantee in luxury fashion.

However, the true value of Goyard extends beyond monetary considerations. The brand offers something increasingly rare in our hyperconnected world: genuine exclusivity without ostentation. In an era where luxury has become democratized through social media and accessible financing, Goyard maintains the traditional definition of luxury—something genuinely rare and exquisite.

The craftsmanship justifies the premium. Each piece represents hundreds of hours of skilled artisanal work using techniques unchanged for over a century. The materials are exceptional, designed to age gracefully and develop character over decades of use. For those who appreciate heritage, quality, and understated elegance, Goyard delivers on every front.

Their Art of Marquage offers hand-painted custom patterns and initials making each bag a potential one-of-a-kind collector’s item and emphasizes heritage over modern mass customization.

The downsides

Limited availability means you can't simply decide to buy Goyard—you must plan, travel, and potentially wait. The brand's exclusivity policies limit purchases, and the lack of online sales creates genuine inconvenience. Quality issues, while rare, do occur, and the brand's limited service network can make repairs challenging.

Goyard represents luxury fashion's ultimate paradox—a brand that achieves maximum desirability through minimal visibility. Its 231-year heritage, exceptional craftsmanship, and strategic scarcity have created a perfect storm of demand that traditional luxury brands struggle to match. More about Goyard?

Pricing Goyard's pricing reflects its positioning at the apex of luxury. Entry-level pieces like the Saint Sulpice cardholder start around $300, while the iconic Saint Louis PM tote begins at approximately $1,600. More structured designs like the Saigon bag range from $4,000 to $7,000, with bespoke trunks commanding upwards of $59,315.

Compared to Louis Vuitton, Goyard typically commands a premium of 50-75%. Where a Louis Vuitton Keepall 55 retails for around $2,000, Goyard's equivalent Boeing 55 starts at $3,500.

Value Retention

Specific models show impressive returns. The Cap Vert bags hold up to 97% of their original retail price on average, while the Saint Louis and Plumet models tie for best resale value at 112% of original retail price. On the secondary market, certain vintage pieces have achieved extraordinary prices.

A vintage Goyard trunk sold for €145,000 at auction in 2007.

More Trivia

In the 1890s, Edmond Goyard created "Chic du Chien," a luxury pet accessories line that included collars and leashes for dogs and even monkeys. The line still exists today, and Goyard opened a dedicated pet store in Paris in 2008.